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February 13

The Best of: New York Fashion Week

By Ella Miista
Today marks the final day of New York fashion week which means it’s time to discuss our favourites, secretly cringe at some others and mentally prepare ourselves for the chaos that takes over London tomorrow as fashion week makes its way to the Old World. All of us in the office have pretty eclectic tastes so at any given day of the week you might see outfits inspired by everything from My Little Pony and Dior's wedding dresses to Kurt Cobain or Morticia Addams. Sometimes we just go with whatever is closest to us in the morning. This means our favourites range from the ultra sleek pastel kissed garms of Phillip Lim to the Star Wars dresses and glittery coats at the Rodarte show. In all honesty we would've expected more. New York is always a little more commercial but it’s not us speaking as Londoners thinking things are so much better here - the SS14 shows here could've been more creative as well. There has been a lot of talk about how the central focus of fashion weeks drifts away from the catwalk onto the streets where amongst buyers and journalists a lot of fashionistas and bloggers have come to show themselves, and maybe that’s true. Again, it’s not a horrible thing - people that dress to impress and express drive fashion in many ways and seeing that is essentially giving us the chance to see things through someone else’s eyes. It’s great. The problem is that when the front row and people behind the doors get more press than the collections they have come to see, it is in a way taking the pressure off the designers. Perhaps easily likeable then becomes more in vogue and easily likeable almost never means exciting and inspiring. However! This sounds more depressing than it’s intended to - there were a lot of things that made us squirm in our seats and if the Mulleavy sisters would want to send us a few of their coats, we’d be very willing to accept them - and potentially give them our souls in return. I present you - our favourite collections. Rodarte AW14 The Rodarte show... that really stole the whole, err, show? This kind of portrays how it made us react though - thought processes slowed down and sentences seized forming as they should. Shiny things make our world go around - my desk buddy Georgie has a glitter hair spray next to her screen (mine is in a drawer at home) and iridescent or patent leathers are a staple in our collections - so I personally would be ok with never buying another garment again if only I could get one of those sparkling coats. After some pondering we’ve also come to the conclusion we would indeed dress up in the Yoda print evening gown. It’s the kind of print that is almost always reserved for casual tops and hoodies which is great but kinda boring, so the juxtaposition of elegance with a cheeky nerdy print was fun and unexpected. The soft pastel coloured dresses and trousers were also dreamy and lush - the kind of things you dreamt of wearing as a child, only they’re now in an adult form. Also, Anna Wintour was spotted smiling at the show. At this point nothing we could say would make a difference. Marc by Marc Jacobs AW14 Another collection to pull us in with shiny stuff (and promises of revolution) was Marc by Marc Jacobs - though apparently now it's MBMJ. There is a lot happening here! There were some super feminine lines and fabrics alongside something a girl with a snowboard and a sneaky plan would look excellent in. There were jail uniform inspired looks and outfits we could totally see Alex from A Clockwork Orange wearing - you know, if the book was written in 2014. With the slogans calling for a revolution and the black inner eyeliner that reminds me of a mother rolling her eyes when her 12-year-old daughter applies makeup to look tough, the show was full of so much life and youth. We dig! Jil Sander AW14 Jil Sander Navy appealed to us in its simplicity and clarity. Though to a lesser extent than previously, the collection had their usual touch of sportswear love and we liked it. Neoprene is all the rage and combining high tech materials with careful tailoring and sleek looks is a beautiful contrast. Very feminine in its chicness on the one hand and then on the other androgynous in its simplicity, it’s a super duper varied collection which is almost surprising since it only includes 18 looks. Of course there's the quality over quantity thing happening here, and quality definitely has the upper hand here. 3.1 Phillip Lim AW14 Then there's 3.1 Phillip Lim. We wouldn't blame you if for a moment you confused the seasons - it's based on a made-up muse called Soleil. Soleil means the sun. Traditionally the symbol of warmth and light, it is relatively foreign in England but Phillip Lim's muse brings it out for us. It isn't all floral prints and soft pastels though - one after another the looks get a little darker (and then a little lighter and again darker) which comes up to a pretty temperamental result. In the best possible way of course; they've made the colour brown look amazing, and floral prints alongside lush coats you could drown in is a very fine way to get through a cold winter indeed. MM6 Maison Martin Margiela AW14 Another definite mega fave is the Margiela collection. By going with very few strong colours, much of the focus here goes on the cuts, shapes and fabrics, and yes! Bubble wrap! Metallics! Bip-like shirts, overflowing coats and jumpers, skirts-cum-dresses and forgotten sleeves! It's the kind of clothes you'd want to run over to and touch them because the metallic shimmers and bubble wraps appeal to senses other than one's sight. Margiela is one of those designers capable of doing easily likeable things without getting lost in the maze of boring stuff - pretty sure he is the only thing me and my 50-something Jewish dad agree on. That's that. Now it's time to get our nails did and take a few deep breaths before tomorrow morning. Expect street style pictures soon! Featured image of Star Wars dresses is by Getty Images. All GIFs have been made with pictures from Style.com
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