Ah, and it's all over. We've chosen our favourites from New York
. Now it's time for Paris. Hardly the city Hemingway describes in A Moveable Feast, it's still living up to its title as the fashion capital of the world. There was a lot we loved. We took a shine to the calm and inmate show at Rick Owens, with latex stockings and a very different choice of models. There were the pink roses and soft leathers at Emanuel Ungaro and Louis Vuitton's shimmering trousers we lusted after. Balmain was great, Gareth Pugh had some spectacular pieces, and of course Dior's
runway music by the techno god French Fries could soundtrack all of it. Narrowing it down to five was as painful as ever but without further ado, here are our favourites! All images are from Style.com
First there was Kenzo
. Their love affair with David Lynch is working oh so well for them. It was taken a step further from the previous two collections they've collaborated on. This time Lynch was in charge of the set design and runway music. You'd expect something a little surreal from a collab like this, but it wasn't as ominous as you'd imagine. Mysterious, yes, but in an alluring kinda way. The shapes were as languid as they were sharp. Silhouettes went from one end of the spectrum to the other with skirts thrown over tailored trousers and suits. There were deep reds and gold on black, lime yellow and brighter greens. Colours all named after Lynch's characters came together in abstract prints. Since it's Kenzo we're talking, it almost goes without saying the prints were ace. The knits and beaded details weren't as
convincing as the rest of the collection. But, they do give a certain connection to Planet Earth the otherwise surreal collection would maybe lack. On the whole, the collection was as hypnotising as the maze it walked through. We want our hands on all of it.
The more fun lil sis of Prada, Miu Miu
made our hearts go boom. Dr. Miuccia Prada is quite the character. She has a PhD in political sciences, worked as a mime and once belonged to a communist party. But, what turned her into a household name is her cheeky approach in turning the plain and comfy into something clever and luxurious. AW14 was no different. Playing with her beloved nylon, we've been left longing for the quilted synthetic dresses and jackets. The Prada favourite clear plastic made appearances. There were the colourful raincoats, footwear that got a poisonous green twist and clothes with playful detailing. In contrast with knitwear, it all came through very fresh. Textured coats stood out, as did the metallic shimmers of the pastel hued fabrics. The girly cute colours juxtaposed well with the long coats and black sunglasses, reminiscent of Matrix. Nerdy and utilitarian clashed with witty and spirited. The result was a collection that lives up to Miuccia's words - normality is weird. Alexander McQueen
is going strong. Craftsmanship and detailing are the key words as their RTW inches closer to couture. In the new collection, Sarah Burton takes us on a walk through the forest. With the catwalk turned into a fake tundra like terrain, it was quite literal. The broderie anglaise and puffed sleeves were both a surprise but they brought the innocence of a fairy tale. The opposing eeriness that forms a whole came from the feathered looks and embroidered organza. It was the sinister feel from them that added the McQueen touch. It was ethereal, it was where the pure meets the seductress. The abundance of textures took from the ground they walked on. The mystic symbols reflected the idea world the collection was born from. Going into this transcendental place for inspiration took the collection somewhere remarkable.
Runways have been as fascinating as the collections in Paris and Iris Van Herpen
was no different. In fact, her living - breathing through oxygen pipes no less - artefacts may have been the most memorable. Wrapped inside plastic vacuum, three models floated in air like the creepiest of installations. The collection asks if we are still the sole proprietor of our bodies and titled 'Biopiracy', it pokes at this uncomfortable question. The sculpture like platforms are almost like an emphasis of this. The garments themselves were so feminine it's almost surprising it wasn't boring. With the flowing silhouettes and silky fabrics it would've been easy to go that way. But, Van Herpen isn't just soft and sweet. The world in which she takes her inspiration from is much more complex. The iridescent shimmers and 3D printing add an element of sci-fi to the game but it's no Star Trek festival. It's just otherworldly.
And then there was Chanel.
Karl Lagerfeld is not a man of subtlety. He is lavish. So, instead of a normal catwalk we got a Chanel Shopping Centre with supermodels hunting for Chanel branded caviar and lemonade. Booze if you’re Cara! It was a spectacle but it didn’t end with the unique runway. Leggings got a Lagerfeld makeover in lurex. Trainers were given a shine or turned into knee-highs. It’s because Lagerfeld knows going to a supermarket in stilettos is ridiculous, duh. There were moth eaten fabrics, metallics and a variety of textures. Add tweed, beads and pearls or blacks next to bright colours. The mix of sportswear and textured dresses was eclectic and existed above trends. It all came together in what was both the most grandiose of fashion celebrations but also the cheekiest satire of the fast consumption of it. From models carrying chainsaws to show goers apparently stealing fruits and vegetables, it was chaotic and surreal. Just what you'd expect from the king of fashion.
We can't wait for the summer but with all that it will bring, we're not dreading next winter. Black and white, gold and pastels, shimmering fabrics, metallics and neoprene - we can work with that.