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June 18

LCM / MAN

By Ella Miista
Yesterday saw the end of London Collections: Men. Phew! We no longer have to worry about our hair looking perfect in case we bump into Ricki Hall or something. It also means it's time to mull over the collections. MAN is definitely one of the most exciting things to take place during LCM. First appearing on menswear schedule in 2005, it was launched by Topman and Fashion East, the latter being a non-profit nurturing young designers. A panel of judges that consists of buyers, journalists and stylists picks three designers that are taken under their wing, so to speak. They're given guidance, financial support and a chance to show their collection during the fashion week in London. Needless to say it's a huge deal for young designers but it's an equally great opportunity for buyers to see new talent. J.W. Anderson, Astrid Andersen and Sam & Agi are all former alumni which is to say the panel very much has their finger on the next cool thing. The designers for spring/summer 2015 were Bobby Abley, Liam Hodges and Nicomede Talavera. For Nicomede Talavera this was the first time to walk under MAN and his collection was a whole lot of gingham and stripes on plissé. All of which we kinda sorta fancied really. There were a lot of dresses - though he insists they are long tops - paired with trousers, boxy jackets and shirts. In theory nothing sounds quite as feminine as plissé and dresses but a man owning his outfit is also pretty masculine. That was exactly what the collection channelled. Liam Hodges was another one to debut this season. His collection something like a park ranger meets a KTZ club kid meets a Native American. It was strange clash of urban and rural but somehow it worked. There was a weird growing up moment within the collection - starting from boy scouts, going to kinda goth-y but still badass denim-wrapped men who know exactly what's happening. Definitely more keen on the denim looks, with this being a favourite. Bobby Abley is probably the best known name out of the three. His familiar Disney obsession remains present but for his final appearance under the MAN umbrella it's been toned down a bit. Little Mermaid references on neoprene tops and sweaters aren't in your face but more like tongue-in-cheek. It's much more subtle but all the more effective for it. We all went a bit ooh and aah for the longboards - I could definitely see myself ditching the heels every once in a while for a board like that. Also, I don't think I've brought it up in the past day but we're all very into neoprene. I wouldn't mind a jumper with an evil sea witch on it either. All photos by Alice Zielasko. NICOMEDE TALAVERA London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN LIAM HODGES London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN BOBBY ABLEY London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN London Collections: Men MAN See more photos through Style.com.
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