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September 23

Marni Oh Marni

By Ella Miista
Marni turned 20 and the celebrations are done in style. As the catwalk finished on Sunday morning, guests were taken for a stroll that led them to Rotonda della Besana. The beautiful baroque building complex was turned into a one-day flower market where Carolina Castiglioni could celebrate with friends and family in true Italian spirit. The day event open to public is quite unlike any nighttime fashion celebration. Marni's approach is fresh and entry policy stricter than airport security is ditched. Of course the collection stood high in its own right. Castiglioni didn’t want a retrospective for Marni’s 20th and that it wasn’t, but it was a story of Marni alright. The brand has always stood out in an otherwise sexy Milan – it carries a sense of fun and boldness. SS15 built on that. The collection was a journey. It started with plain linens, reminiscent of a blank canvas, edging towards an explosion of colour and print. The light clean linens were almost Spartan, maybe even religious in their plainness. But the thick judo belts, inventive cuts and subtle prints kept adding until it erupted into true Marni madness. It was as if dissecting a flower. The colours went from beige to blocks of black against coral, and prints from symmetry to flower power. The curves of petals inspired shapes and here Marni isn’t straightforward. Marni has exaggerated lines and demanding pieces. But, once worked into an outfit, they bring magic. Marni is also one to play with materials. This time they made use of simple materials like linen and jute, as well as metallic leathers and embroidered chiffon. In a way it was a collage of everything that's great about experimenting. What was the highlight? The chiffon skirt with mirrored embroidery and sideways ruffles? The leather jacket with a floral print? Maybe the metallic dress with a combination of floral prints? It’s difficult to pick one, but of course this is what makes the collection such a stellar one. Summer of ’15 will be the defined by flower power, but done in a Marni manner. Featured image courtesy of Marni, show pictures via Style.com MAR_0143 MAR_0301 MAR_0363 MAR_0527 MAR_0603 MAR_0679

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