Fashion Week took over London, and there was plenty to love. Just, between what seems to be everything and a bit more, we’ve only just had the chance to sit down and mull over our favourites. Jimmy Kimmel’s Lie Witness News unfortunately doesn’t travel to London but there was plenty of actual fashion to keep us excited. We also bumped into plenty of people with impeccable taste – you can see street style photos here
. But the collections... where to start? Let's kick off with Simone Rocha
. She is sweet, she’s so romantic, but she delivers her own version of it. It’s a view unaffected by Valentine’s Day postcards and heart-shaped chocolates. It’s not forced, and it carries a feeling so deep and profound even marabou can’t make it tacky. It’s not just candy coloured dreaminess either. Softness runs parallel with depth and darkness, just like the real thing. There’s the tale of vulnerability, of being exposed, told by dresses, suits and macs in sheer fabrics. Heavyset embroidered materials, outfits finished with barely-there sheer gloves, hint at the shields we sometimes cover ourselves up with. The collection also played with print, with flowers almost coming alive in 3D. It was a dance between fragility and openness, tenderness and strength. Simone Rocha’s woman might be sweet, but she certainly isn’t a sucker. Mary Katrantzou
is in a world of her own but with balls as big as hers, you kinda need it. She is bold. And so, though known for her prints as Kenzo is for theirs, she’s gone down a different route. Looking at her catwalk, it’s one covered with lava but the heat won’t make her bat an eyelid. Instead she takes her ideas and deconstructs them. With patterns cut apart and pieced together leaving skin exposed through sheer fabrics, she builds her dreams up in new glory. With prints no longer at the forefront, textures take over. Simple shapes come together in new form. Tulle flows, satin and silk glow, embroidery becomes central. The detailing is so intricate it’s almost surreal, and the execution is flawless. Katrantzou’s move from the digital landscape of prints to a new sartorial dimension leaves us in awe. Marques’Almeida
loves their denim. So do we, and pretty much anyone else that’s come in contact with it. But, they’re not a denim brand – it’s just been something they’ve loved working with. Recently they’ve been quite into the idea of introducing new materials into their work. Mind you – the marriage of silk, denim and Swarovski crystals is one we wholly support. Besides – even when they use denim, they still deliver something unusual. A Nirvana fan girl is what ‘frayed denim’ brings into mind. It's certainly not crystal garnished Lurex jeans, or a dress with some tulle peeking from underneath. Shapes presented them both sharp and languid. Silk made an appearance as sheer and ruffled, black and colour blocked, leather came in bright hues. The collection was so complete – it travelled from casual to elegant and somewhere in between their cool girl grew up to be an even cooler woman.
This isn't an exhaustive list - we'll be writing about a few more in the next coming days!