Best Of: Paris Fashion Week SS15
This time fashion weeks have really flown past us, and Paris was no different. Though we’ve been busy hustling with shoes rather than attending any shows, we’ve kept an eye on everything. Better late than never so here’s our SS15 faves from Paris.
We’re suckers for our sports influenced fashion and Carven
delivered. According to head designer Guillaume Henry the collecion was for the Carven girl that is dynamic, energetic, spontaneous, fresh and efficient. That it was. Tour de France has served as an inspiration to Parisian designers this season as bike shorts made an appearance and even footwear seemed fit for cycling. Carven’s done it all in class – the athletic notes aren’t obvious, it all rings through a layer of sellable elegance. Formula One like bold lines mixed well with A-line skirts and 60s inspired mod dresses, PVC python jackets and snakeskin looked oddly good against the Japanese influenced prints of bathers and landscapes. Perhaps this is a bit much for anyone that doesn’t want their whole wardrobe to consist of primary colours but it all came together in a very simple and slick way. Maybe I will next summer brave the London traffic and get on a bike, but regardless those shorts will be a trend.
Then there’s Balenciaga
. While still nodding to the past, Alexander Wang seems to be finding his footing at Balenciaga. There are voices here and there still crying for Ghesquiere but we love what Wang has done this season. There’s still the mix of street and sport – Wang’s signature – but it’s blended with the essence of the Parisian house. Wang points out how Balenciaga isn’t just about austere lines but also has a history of decorative embellishments. Perhaps this isn’t the designer’s forte, but with the geometric vibe of embellishments he’s made it work. The lattices and netted tops and dresses are Balenciaga to the T, the knits are to die for. There’s nothing quite like layering to keep things exciting and the tight fitted garments underneath maxi dusters do it justice. The flowing coats combined with cycling shades come together in a Matrix kinda way, and the way mesh and see-through are mixed with silk and leather is wonderful. There is that touch of sporty – it’s all entirely wearable – but it’s elevated, and it’s certainly very elegant. It’s all very dynamic but sexy – it’s Baleciana by Alexander Wang at its best yet.
Phoebe Philo at Celine
took “This Woman’s Work” by Kate Bush as the centrepoint for the collection; the vulnerability of it serving as a something incredibly inspiring to her. The collection showed the vulnerability as Philo opened herself up to anything that came her way. Take the prints – hardly a regular in a Celine line-up, Philo wasn’t saying no to throwing herself in new waters. The exposed but powerful tone was set for the whole collection in the very first look of course; the strong angular lines of the utilitarian top were a starkly contrasting with the knitted mermaid like skirt. Knits were of course the highlight – slick fitted garments exploding into fringing were alluring and provocative, fragile yet comforting all the same. Practical garments saw their shapes altered; cut-out details and shiny inserts took away what’s normal and instead transformed them into what we’d call Measured Madness. Topstitching highlighted the lines and cuffs on flared trousers kept the lines in place. It was all about the shapes. The collection was a dynamic one, utilitarian in a way but laid back in its attitude. Philo’s tale about vulnerability giving birth to creativity is emotional – and so is the collection. Celine SS15 is the highlight of the season, perhaps. Header image from Lea Colombo