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September 18

NYFW: Kinky, Nostalgic, Baffling, and Boring.

By Sister Wolf

Describing New York Fashion Week without being there is a bit like the parable of six blind men describing an elephant. But at least I have the advantage of sight, so I'll report my impressions thus far.


NYFW review by Miista. Image by Helmut Lang


Let's start with kinky. Both Philipp Plein and Helmut Lang were intent on being naughty. Lots of harnesses and bondage references. Plein called his collection "Good Gone Bad," using cartoon princess images juxtaposed with leather pasties. He sent three generations of Snoop Dogg down the runway to underline his inclusiveness.
Helmut Lang hired Hood By Air's Shayne Oliver as its designer in residence, and the result was fetish minimalism. Boys were girl and vice versa. It was sort of a glorified sex shop aesthetic that I personally don't need.

 NYFW review by Miista. Image: Anna Sui

Anna Sui's collection was a Summer of Love 60's tour, with floaty ruffles, fringes, and astrological patterns. It is classic Anna Sui, so if you like 60's waifs and groupies, this show was a winner.

 NYFW review by Miista. Image: Tom Ford

Tom Ford gave us Tom Ford, circa 90's Gucci, with all the glamour, big shoulders, and anorexia. His models looked more starving than anyone else's. Nice going, Tom.

 NYFW review by Miista. Image: DVF

Diane Von Furstenberg went all 70's, with swirling midi dresses and long silk fringing. The colors were eye-popping, in original combinations. Reminiscent of Biba, the collection managed to look both nostalgic and fresh at the same time.
If you can't get enough oversized Vestement sleeves, look no further than Matthew Adams Dolan, whose sleeves dangled to the knee and below. Why? Don't ask me. Just let me know when the statement sleeve thing is over. 

For a jolt of embarrassment, Namilia's vulva-centric collection was called "My Pussy, My Choice". Playful padded vulva's decorated sleeves, hemlines, even shoes. I'm going to just say Ew, and move on.

 NYFW review by Miista. Image: Namilia


New fashion darlings Eckhaus Latta brought genuine diversity to their show, with elderly, chubby, and even pregnant models wearing the label's weird normcore designs that I still find baffling. Those in the know claim they are the most exciting thing around, so just do your best to get excited.

 NYFW review by Miista. Image: Sies Marjan

 

On the positive side, Sies Marjan brought the luscious colors and luxurious fabrics that got us going from their first collection. The clothes look almost edible. Make me rich so I can have all of it, plus their shoes.

 NYFW by Miista. Image: Naeem Kahn's


Naeem Kahn's collection was described by Vogue as ballerina-on-vacation, and I would add Indian Royalty and flappers to the extravagant mix. The models all wore large ornate nose-rings and flowers in their rolled-up hair. Adorably exotic, is my verdict.

 

What did you love or hate about NYFW? Let us know.

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